Hair Extension Styles and Techniques Overview

The term “hair extension” refers to numerous techniques of enhancing ones natural hair by adding other hair to it. This “commercial” hair can originate from all over the world, usually collected for this specific purpose and comes in many lengths, colors and textures. Sometimes synthetic hair is used, depending on the technique and desired result. These hair additions can either be temporary, such as clip-in pieces and wiglets, etc. or they can be anchored to the natural hair in a semi-permanent fashion.

Methods for extending the hair vary and it seems there’s a new one everyday! Many extension artists will master several techniques. This is to more adequately service the different and particular needs of their clients. When choosing a suitable method, many factors should be taken into consideration. The “finished look” may be your biggest concern, but longevity, possible hair damage and ease of care are just as important.

Common methods are pole weaving, braid weaving, interlock, weft bonding, half braids, micro knotting and the hot glue technique. Using hot melt adhesive is sometimes known as “fusion” or “bonding”. This can be a little confusing at first (which is one reason for the lengthy dissertation). but don’t worry, we’re here to help you sort it all out.

Glue. Shedding. The Golden Rule.

When I first started this little business of making glue, EVERYHTING seemed like an uphill battle. The mere idea of putting glue in someones hair, in and of itself, was questionable. We all got over that rather quickly as the many pro’s of strand on strand methods became apparent.

Next there was the matter of what hair to use. I started in the Stone Age of Hair Extensions and the pickin’s were slim! Since then, the range of colors, textures, lengths and quality has grown literally by leaps and bounds…So now we face another issue…one that’s a little more insidious and harder to detect.

In the manufacturers attempts to make extension hair softer, silkier and tangle-free, some hair is being processed to the point that NO glue on Earth will hold it. Basically, it’s stripped of all it’s cuticle (you know, those little boogers responsible for causing the tangles in the first place). With this hair there’s nothing for the adhesive to grab onto. The hair feels great…even after much wear….but we won’t get to experience that part, ’cause it sheds right out! So, that takes me back to one of my Golden Rules.

It’s the step no one can afford to skip….pre-washing your extension hair! You really don’t know what you’re about to put on your client’s head if you don’t pre-wash the hair. First we know the adhesive needs absolutely squeaky clean, 100% dry hair to create a strong bond. We must glue hair to hair…not hair to conditioner (or any other cosmetic build-up). But, say you wash your extension hair with your deep cleansing, ultra stripping-chelating shampoo…..and it just feels slimy no matter how many times you wash and rinse and wash and rinse. You can bet it’s been so over processed that nothing…not even Super Glue will hold it. (Trust me…I’ve tried everything!) You’ll most likely experience this with the lighter colors. Blondes have been and most likely will always be the most challenging hair extension clients for a banana boat full of reasons. You’re better off with the highest quality blond hair you can get your hands on. Your lightest blond European and Italian hair is usually lifted from natural grey/white hair. This means a huge difference in quality between it and bagged Asian Hair, which is generally lifted up from black and off-black hair. Hmmm, how interesting……

Anyway…that’s my tidbit for today…hope it helps. I’m just a phone call or email away if you need me. Thanks for looking.

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